Oh yes! Ed certainly grows up by the end of the show. Actually, I think FMA is one of the best coming-of-age animes that I've ever seen. It's not just that Ed starts to look older and act more responsible, but you can actually /feel/ how he changes over the course of a couple of episodes. The final kick that propels Ed into adulthood occurs in the last 3 episodes or so, though it starts sooner than that and is documented throughout the entire show. It's absolutely perfect because Ed /thinks/ he's an adult when he becomes a State Alchemist but his notion of what it really means to be an adult and understand the world as an adult understands it changes dramatically toward the end of the show. The crux of the change is echoed a lot in other coming-of-age stories, but because it is so central to the entire plot and premise of FMA, I found it to be particularly moving for Ed.He grows up!!!!! I've been waiting for Ed to do that but since he never did I just kinda assumed in my weird little mind that the mishap with his mother and brother messed with his body and he didn't grow. Was the movie pretty good?
I hope that doesn't spoil anything. I'm trying to make my point without being too transparent.
It's great, though! I hope you like it ^^
All the best anime couples usually have to be explored in fanfiction for the most part... HxR, for example. 
I don't do that very often. 
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